Busy Wednesday

Wednesday April 13^th, 2011

After doing our usual morning routine Joe and I met the young ladies at one of the training centers in Wentworth. We met there because the man who was coming to speak to them wanted to use a projector in order to show his photographs, unfortunately that never happened. However, Cedric Nunn the photographer did get speak to them about the power of photography and the role that they were playing as well as the potential power they have by creating images of their community.

After that Joe and I attended the Rotary meeting that takes place at Durban Botanical Garden’s Visitor Center. When we first entered it looked as though there would be about 50 people attending, however the man who greeted me assured me that there were far fewer people who would be in attendance than the chairs.

When everyone arrived everyone sat down with their drinks, one of the members Mike passed out playing cards to the members in order to vie for a bottle of wine in a card draw game. This is common amongst Rotary clubs here in South Africa. After saying the Rotary “Four Way Test” the business of the day was announced. When it was my turn to speak I was able to entertain the group with my PowerPoint and got lots of questions after. The people were so very welcoming to Joe and I that they gave us a Rotary Mug – which I am sure Joe will be drinking his coffee out of - and a Rotary shirt.

Our only trouble with the meeting is that it started a bit late and I probably talked longer than I should have so we got out later than expected. The trouble with that was that immediately afterwards we had a dinner party to attend at one of the Rotarians from the morning club that we me the previous week. After a few last chats Joe and I raced to our dinner party at the home of the managing editor of the Sunday Tribune. http://www.sundaytribune.co.za/

We were 40 minutes late at least and were crossing our fingers that everyone hadn’t already eaten and were getting ready for bed. Luckily they had waited and we got to meet some really lovely people. They treated us to a lovely dinner filled with intelligent conversation and delicious biryani (like a rice pilaf), bobotie (a minced meat casserole dish with a South African twist), and salad. At about 10 pm we called it a night because editor’s son and exchange student had school early in the morning. We promised to return for games next time. All in all it was another lovely day in South Africa.

Durban city center

<!--[if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false EN-US ZH-CN X-NONE

April 9^th, 2011

It really feels like summer has ended and autumn has descended upon us. Saturday started off slow, possibly because it seems like the temperature has really dropped. Joe and I woke up after a long sleep and milled around our flat. Nothing was scheduled early so we had our homemade pizza for breakfast, we read, we did a little internet surfing and finally we did some yoga.

After getting invigorated we left the house at 2pm! I convinced Joe we should buy tickets to a puppet show called Mummenschanz taking place at the Durban Playhouse. Reluctantly I think, Joe made the purchase the other day at Checkers, one of the local supermarkets. I knew he’d enjoy it because from what I read in the newspaper a few weeks ago it was a show like any other by a group of four Swiss puppeteers.

For more info please click here http://www.mummenschanz.com/index.asp?topic_id=122&g=13&m=96

It was a beautiful drive to the playhouse. The sun was shining and the heat seemed to have dissipated because we were able to keep our windows down instead of having the A/C on. We parked the car by City Hall. It was nice to be in the city center to admire all the architecture and people. Walking down the clear streets we could hear drumming and house music mixing with the horns of vehicles coming from the minibus taxis. Groups of people gathered around street performers while others marched on to their numerous destinations.

Joe and I made our way to the theatre and found our seats after wandering around the playhouse for a bit. The show began with two people dressed all in black except for giant white hands atop their torsos. The hands did things like pull the curtains back, point at the audience, clap, wave, and one even grabbed someone in the front row. Laughter could be heard all around.

No one spoke. It was a silent event filled with wondrous, amorphous puppets that would sometimes resemble human and animal forms, but later change in front of our eyes to become something unrecognizable. The thing about the show is that all the puppet forms were able to display and convey emotion that captivated the audience, made us “Ooo and Ahhh”, and giggle sometimes uncontrollably. Occasionally there was a scream of fear from a small child which only made the audience more exhilarated.

During intermission, Joe and I decided to go outside for some warmth as the theatre was super cold. Across the street was a group of Zulu youngsters from 3-20 dancing to the beat of two large drums. They were dressed in traditional skins and beads, and some of the young ladies were even topless. We watched their high kicking and stomping bare feet to the beat of the drum until they stopped a few minutes later and headed back to the theatre for more wonderment.

When the show finally ended we grabbed a muffin and headed back to the car. To our joy and entertainment the group of dancers were still out and this time standing opposite what appeared to be another troop whom they were competing with. We watched the challenging dancing of the girls until all of a sudden one of the young men began headed my way with his head piece in his hands. Before I knew it he had placed it on my head and grabbed both Joe and I by the hands. The young man lead us to where the dancers were and put us on either side of him. We were expected to dance so dance we did. Throwing our legs high in the air and shaking to the beats of the drum. After a few shakes we made our final stomps and exited. Joe’s faith in Zulu culture had been restored.

After such exhilarating showcases of talent we left the city limits to hills filled with sugarcane fields to witness the natural phenomena of millions of barn swallows congregating. While waiting for the swallows, planes flew overhead since we were not far from the airport. Finally, just as the sun set in the distance millions of swallows could be seen and heard fluttering in all directions. It lasted for about 15 minutes and then ended as quickly as it began.

We made our way home through the hills, passed the Sibaya Casino and the numerous cargo ships sitting in the Indian Ocean. Before we got home we took a drive through Wentworth to see the Engine Refinery at night and get a few pictures. In all it was a good day filled with mesmerizing human feats of excellence.

April 7, 2011

It seems like almost forever since we have been in Durban, even though we were away for only about a week and a half. In that time we went to my cousin’s wedding in Johannesburg where I was the maid of honor, we camped in St Lucia/isiMangaliso Park with the hippos eating next to our tent at night, and ended up in eShowe for the second part of the wedding for the other half of the family.

During both events it was nice to see all the families gathering together and helping out where ever they could. This was the case especially in eShowe where friends and family were responsible for the catering, decorations, serving, DJing, and clean-up.

When we returned to Durban it seemed like a long time since we had been to the university and even lost our way a bit. It was exam time staring Monday and walking to the library there was a buzz of studious students and the library was jam packed. We tried to do some internet business but ended up attending a Maskandi music performance by students at Howard College Theatre. It was the first time we actually got to attend the lunch hour performance, since the last time we attempted there was a student strike.

After the show we met with our group of young ladies and brought in a lady who did photo research in their neighborhood. The woman is a lecturer and graduate student in Graphic Arts and had just finished presenting her research in the form of a book. She brought the book to look at as inspiration for the ladies and by the end those that did attend seemed to be bubbling with excitement to take pictures.

Today, April 7, Joe and I got up extra early, 6am to attend Umhlatuzana Rotary club which holds their meetings at 7 am at the Durban Surf and Lifesaving Club. As we drove we got to see the sun rise and were the first to arrive. It was nice attending a new club and meeting all the different people. There was a youth exchange person from Brazil, a Cornel in the South African Reserve force, the managing editor for the Sunday Tribune (the largest English language newspaper) and many others. Wally is the president of the club and told me as members go it is the “youngest club” with the youngest member being 20!

There was a lot of business talk going on so my speech was cut short. However, because the projector was also not around I have been invited to do a repeat performance with slides and all.

After the meeting Joe and I decided to walk down to uShaka Marine Park to visit the snake park. We had been to the shopping center and aquarium quite a few times but kept missing the park so it was nice to finally get a chance to visit. There were snakes, lizards, and frogs from all over. There were also shaking boxes planted all over the darkened hallways to scare people so throughout our visit there were people screaming and jumping out of fear and surprise.

After the snake exhibit we returned to the car and headed home. Later in the afternoon we attended our host club in Pinetown and got to hear the job talk done by the newest member of the club, Dave, who told us all about his career as a real estate agent. We also learned about the man who started the company he worked for and how generous he was. Many of the Rotarians knew the man personally and professionally so nostalgic anecdotes were shared.

At the end of the meeting Joe and I got to catch up with some of the Rotarians we hadn’t seen for a few weeks and then drove home. This weekend is a full of interviews, meeting with the girls, and checking out some festivals.

Wentworth, Sibaya, and Trevor Noah

Yesterday was Saturday. We had planned to have an early start and drive down to Victoria market, which I have heard to be rumored as one of the biggest in sub-Saharan Africa. Whether this is true or not it is truly an experience to wander around the 138 year old Market.
To read more please click here <--

Unfortunately, we did not make it because we woke up late and had a slow morning start. In any case while Joe went out to get some provisions to do an oil change before our long drive to Johannesburg, I stayed at home to do Yoga. I made it most of the way through the 1.5 hour long video session then got ready to meet with the youth group I am involved in. Because the students in the area have half a day of school on Saturdays I was surprised to see our young ladies dressed in their "street clothes". I am so used to seeing them in uniforms that this was a nice surprise. Today was the first time we got to see the ladies' pictures that they had been taking with the project cameras. They seemed to be very eager to share and see each others pictures. When the meeting ended it was really nice to see people that didn't know each other before were walking together and forming friendships. It was also nice to see some of the girls in the neighborhood documenting their space.

When we left the girls we ended up returning home to rest up before going to see the comedian Trevor Noah. We had purchased tickets a couple of days after we heard he would be preforming from my auntie. Prior to getting on the highway north we also got to see the full moon, which according to the Sunday Times was the biggest and closest it will be this year.

Trevor Noah performed at Sibaya Casino. A magnificently opulently South African structure which incorporates Zulu inspired architecture, museum quality cultural artifacts, and of course slot machines and all other gambling paraphernalia. When we entered I was truly taken aback and took in all the visual stimulation as it came.

We found our seats in the iZulu Theatre and waited to be entertained. I considered the show to also be part of my research since Trevor Noah is a Coloured (aka mixed race) comedian who has a satirical outlook of South Africa's people and politics. A lovely surprise were the two acts prior to Trevor. One was another Coloured guy originally from Sydnam, Durban - a formerly Coloured area and a White beat boxer named George Avakian (aka Georgeous the Beatboxer) who blew the crowd away with the sounds that came out of his mouth. Please check out some of his work here <-- In all it was a beautiful night and we even got to do some dancing after the show. It was a quiet ride home, no traffic, but you could hear people drag racing down the open roads. Today, we went to church with one of the Rotary members from Chatsworth and afterward spent the afternoon with my cousin and auntie visiting some flea markets. Friday was a full day as well. I was supposed to do an interview but was late because I was getting my eyebrows threaded. For those of you who don't know about threading, it is a method of removing unwanted hair using a thread that is twisted around the hair and pulled out as a result. It has the same effect as plucking or waxing except the first time I tried threading I was amazed at how good they were and also enjoyed the novelty of the entire process. The place I went to to get my eyebrows done was at Lotus Park, during Apartheid an Indian area but since '94 and the democratic elections mostly "Black" Africans are moving in and not everyone is very happy.

In any case I got to the library to do my interview. It was supposed to take only a couple of hours but ended up extending because the man speaking was such an expert that he just began talking and before I could ask another question he was on to another topic. Well I was supposed to meet my cousins at 1:00pm but ended up meeting them at 2:40. We had decided to go to lunch because by that point lunch was way passed. Unfortunately for the people working at Yossi's, a Moroccan place, we got there just in time for them to have to stay open another hour and prepare four more dishes. Thankfully, the cooks prepared for us a lovely meal and satisfied our hungry bellies.

After we finished we ended up at the Botanical gardens to pass some time and while my one cousin went home to prepare for prayers, as he is an ordained Buddhist monk, his brother came with us and we headed to Suncoast Casino on Durban beach front to meet Cool and the Gang. We arrived a couple hours early so we got to walk on the beach before waiting in the Casino. Unfortunately, even though we were the first ones there we did not get to meet the band because we were not pushing in front like all the others. :( We barely got a signed picture but because we had been there so long I was determined to get something. Though I don't care about the group that much it was the principle of the affair. Plus I was hoping to give something to my uncles. Let's see if they like it.

Although the night was a disappointment it was really nice spending time with my cousins and laughing. I wouldn't have done it any differently. :)

UKZN and New Rotary Clubs.

March 10^th, 2011

Today was a pretty relaxed day. Joe and I woke up and read our books on South Africa, did some yoga and decided to go to the Temple of Understanding which is the largest Hare-Krishna temple in the Southern Hemisphere. The temple is located in Chatsworth, Durban one of the former Indian neighborhoods during the Apartheid regime. We decided to visit the temple because later in the evening we were going to the Chatsworth Rotary Club to give a talk and meet some new people.

Anyway, we entered the temple and a female devotee sought us out and told us a bit about the temple. She explained to us how the building was built in 1985 by a German devotee. From the air it is in shaped like a lotus. The many portraits of Krishna’s life were digitally produced, she told us. The statues of Krishna and the mother effigy were dressed daily as a devotional practice to attain a closer relationship to God and God’s love.

When we left the temple we had some time before the meeting so we walked around Gandhi Park. About 30 minutes prior to the meeting we made our way to Chatsworth Hospice where the club meets. We first met the president – Mr. Parlin Paramaul and chatted with some of the other members when they arrived. I got to sit up front between the secretary and president. After the prayer, repeating the four way test, and the Rotary business was taken up it was my turn to speak.

I got a warm reception and we were invited back anytime. They seemed eager also to have Joe speak about his research so we’ll get to go back soon. At the close of the meeting we had a dinner of mutton bryiani (like a rice pilaf) and carrot, cabbage, and radish salad. I must say it was a nice surprise.

From President Parlin we learned the Chatsworth Club has several community projects. There is a uniform program to distribute school uniforms to needy children and a food distribution to needy families to name a few. We hope to get involved with one of their many programs soon.

February University students were protesting all over the KZN province beginning on February 25th, lasting until the entire week. Joe and I went to campus at around noon to hear some jazz not really thinking of the protests. We had just comeback from a very laid back weekend in Eshowe with my aunt. We were going to go to UKZN on Monday, February 28th to listen to some music students perform. We decided to pass through the Shepstone building. I think we were a bit early because I began hearing some singing. It was just a few students in the hall at first. Then about 300 yards away in the direction of the theater a large group of students came marching by and singing. I got out my camera to document the event as a good anthropologist should.

Anyhow, the first wave of students came by without incident and seemed joyful at their united effort. However, as some of them in the back were passing you see their efforts were not entirely peaceful as they knocked over very heavy cement trash bins onto the tile floor. A wave of trash was left in their wake.

About 10 seconds later another wave of students could be seen. I wondered out loud to Joe whether we should follow or wait for the next wave. We decided to wait off to the side. It was exciting hearing the singing and watching the students march. Unfortunately, the next wave were not so peaceful because right at the beginning a young man threw something a juice box at me. Then he yelled for me to turn off the camera that I was not permitted to take pictures.

To read more from the SA news click here <-- Before I could do or say anything he came up to me and tried to grab the camera. Joe told him to stop and pushed the guy away. Then the guy hit Joe. It was surreal! My camera was flung out of my hands, I was pushed to the ground, my glasses flew off my face and I lost a flip flop. At that point I had nothing material to worry about so I tried to get between them but Joe was swinging to defend himself. People were screaming all around (from what I got from the video). Then a bunch of other guys jumped in, luckily some were trying to help us! Anyway some guy picked up my stuff and handed it to me and we were shoved into an empty class room. We just looked at each other in shock. Joe's nose was bleeding but was not broken or anything. It didn't look very good though. When we gathered are barrings we exited to the same guys that I assume shoved us into the room. They inquired whether we were okay and if we wanted to go to the clinic. As we were standing around a large group of students began gathering around us. I was not really scared or nervous at that point although maybe I should have been. I really just wanted Joe to clean himself up and make sure he was okay. The young man had the foresight to lead us away from the protesters. He apologized profusely and explained to us how sometimes the people get very emotional during these times and when they see someone from another race taking pictures they get angry because they think those people are trying to make them look bad. Well, if I must say his actions made him look bad and I got it on video! Joe washed up. While he was in the bathroom a young lady came up to us to apologize for the incident. I think they felt really bad when they found out we were from overseas. Another student came up to us and asked us to report the incident to the police. Joe did not want to but we ended up talking to them outside after the guy led us out. Anyway, when we were talking to the police the guy who had lead us out and urged us to report ran up to us saying "it just happened again" around that same time there was almost another altercation between the protesters and another guy (dunno if he was a student or not). The police asked if we wanted to press charges but we were like "who would we press charges against?" because we really didn't see his face. He was tall, skinny, black guy with a brown t-shirt which was now ripped or non-existent thanks to me. We gave them our contact info. and the captain - a tall, thin Indian man with shotgun shells round his waist, a bullet proof vest, and aviator type sunglasses on - stated he would file a report for their purposes. Anyway by the time the students were outside we watched a few of them stage a sit in and then decided to leave because I had an interview to conduct. It was hectic but luckily nothing worse happened. : ) Next time I see a protest or gathering of people and I want to document it I will stand far away so there is not a repeat incident.

Here is the video http://www.youtube.com/user/stahjose#p/a/u/0/vXNi7COtiog