intro to KZN

We arrived in Durban almost a month ago. It was a five hour drive from Johannesburg to Durban on roads passing outside the Drakensburg mountain range and through huge farms of mealies (corn or maize) and cattle, with a few game farms thrown in. The land was very green as January is the rainy season here.

We arrived to our new accommodations in Amanzimtoti, just south of Durban. A coastal suburb which was developed in 1906 when big industry came to the area. There are some spectacular views in the area of the Indian Ocean. Unfortunately we do not have any, although we do get to go to the beach quite often.

About three weeks ago I met my first Rotarian (or as the South Africans have feminized them to “Rotary Anns”). Alethea who is the student coordinator met us in a place just outside of central Durban, in a place that used to boast hunting in the hills less than 200 years ago. In place of wild game malls, apartment buildings, and quaint restaurants have sprung up. Alethea was very personable. After doing our introductions she told us about all the other Rotary Ambassadorial Scholars who are wondering around the Durban area and who have yet to leave. She also briefed us on the club that would become our host.

A week later we met with Anne who is from the Pinetown club who is our liaison. Pinetown is another industrial suburb west of Durban. Anne is super sweet and has a lovely “British” accent. We found out more about the Pinetown club and were told that the District Governor was going to be at the next meeting and that we should wear red if we could. So when Thursday came Joe and I got ourselves ready and wore as much red as we could which really wasn’t very much. In any case the meeting was very long and super red. Carolyn the president told us that it was in honor partly of Valentines Day. They had arranged a singer, elaborate centers for the tables, and most people wore some red. Everyone welcomed us with open arms and it was pleasant getting to meet everyone and see how their club works. The next week when we attended the meeting, which was much less formal, I made my introduction as did Joe. It was lucky we came that day because their scheduled speaker did not arrive.

Between the meetings Joe and I have been meeting many people, doing interviews, setting up focus groups, and visiting places. The research aspect of the trip seems to be -on task and I have got tons of support from people in Wentworth – a formerly Coloured (mixed-race category from Apartheid days) neighborhood in south Durban that is situated amidst an oil refinery and several other industrial plants – institutions like the Killie Cambell Library, University of KwaZulu-Natal, and KwaMuhle Museum, where my former isiZulu teacher works!

On Saturday Joe and I decided to go to the Botanical Gardens because we were going to meet someone around there later. The gardens have some spectacular specimens, many of which are imported. There is a fern area with numerous types from Asia, Baobab trees from West Africa, humongous fig trees, Bromileads from Central America, as well as tons of water plants, herbs, and flowers. The area is a “hot spot” for weddings and picnics and we saw our share of sparkling Indian brides contrasted by people lounging on blankets on the grass.

While we were at the garden we heard some music. So decided to venture out to see what the music was about and if we could see what we thought was a concert. After a ten minute walk or so we didn’t hear anything anymore and were sad because we figured it had ended. However, after passing a ornate Hindu temple/school juxtaposed to a Islamic learning center, across the street from a Roman Catholic Church, we came upon a political rally for the newest breakaway party – National Freedom Party (NFP).

The NFP is a spin-off of the Inkatha Freedom Party (IFP) that has a long history in the province. It is typically associated with the amaZulu people who are the majority ethnic group of this province (hence the name KwaZulu-Natal). They have also been known for their violent clashes in the 1990s with the now ruling party African National Congress (ANC – the party of Mandela).

For more information please click here: SA history online

And so the NFP is actually less than one month old. However from the crowds of people you wouldn’t know it. When we arrived at the sports field thousands of people were milling about, sitting in stands, lounging on the grass, and listening intently to the voluptuous woman, dressed in NFP colors (orange, black, and green), speaking on the platform. She spoke the new party’s manifesto in both isiZulu and English. She seemed eloquent and well rehearsed, not once did she stumble over a word. She spoke about sensible things and sensible needs all governments should meet. Towards the end of her speech she began singing and what was so moving was that everyone in the stands began singing too. But it wasn’t just singing, the crowds of hundreds of people began harmonizing and producing rounds in an intricate weaving of voices. The beautiful thing is that after the woman had exited the stage the people continued to sing and as a large group began singing another song in the same seemingly rehearsed manner.

One funny thing that happened was while we were standing in the field watching the orange sea of NFP supporters, the landscaper from the Killie Campbell Library appeared before us and greeted. We were very surprised because not in a million years did I expect to see someone I had met. It was a nice addition to the day.

When the singing subsided a music group came on with Zulu dancers. We went closer to the stage to see and got another treat. The event ended at 16:00 hrs (4pm). It was a mission to exit because there was a bottle neck at the exit so people were squishing through the dividers and doors attempting to leave. People had been bussed from hundereds of kilometers away and had a long way home. Busses were filled with orange. When we left the rally we were just about ready to vote NFP. We returned to the gardens for another hour and then went to our meeting. It was a lovely day in Durban.

NFP launch

Johannesburg

January 11, 2010

Our plane touched down at O.R. Tambo Airport at 07:20 in the morning. Joe and I were exhausted because unlike the first leg of our trip we could not really sleep when we boarded. After deplaning we had a longish walk to passport control. The world cup was still being advertised and I assume the latest in South African pop was playing over the loud speakers. The mood seemed upbeat so going through customs was not an issue and we passed through without any hassles despite the long lines.

My aunt was waiting for us on the other side and we greeted her with smiles and hugs. Off we went to her house to get situated and rested. When we arrived we met my uncle’s high school roommate that had come with his family all the way from Vermont! However after about an hour of chatting we couldn’t take it anymore and took a rest. It must have been about 09:00 hrs when we hit the bed and about 16:00 hrs – 4 pm – when we awoke! For the rest of the night we chatted with everyone while we ate fresh homemade pizza that my uncle’s friends made. What a lovely second homecoming!

January 13 - 16, 2010

A few weeks ago I received an email from the Chair of my advisory committee stating that she was going to be in Johannesburg. We met up with her two times while we were here. Once for a light lunch and coffee and another time for a proper lunch at a place called Moyos. I brought my little cousin because I figured it would be a nice experience. Moyos is a sort of upscale chain restaurant with an African theme. My advisor described it as a place where they perform Africanness. They serve indigenous meats that are considered exotic to Western visitors – like ostrich and springbuck – and North African cuisine – such as couscous along with other African samples.

We entered the area to the uproarious beats of drums filling the dining room. After a few minutes they settled down and we were able to hear one another, browse through the copper covered menus, and order from the fuchsia feather headdress wearing waitress. We all had lovely conversation and were able to take in all the sights and sounds the establishment. Cowry shells were embedded in the walls, medieval styled heavy brass doors, and multi-colored walls with feathers in the bathroom. While we ate some light jazz was played by that Sunday’s act. When they took their break four women in brightly colored dresses with equally brightly colored head-wraps went from table to table singing different South African songs.

We spent about 2 hours with at lunch before we had to rush off to drop my advisor and cousin to their respective residents before rushing to Market Theater inside the city. Luckily it was Sunday so traffic was not too bad and we happened to make it just in time. We met my aunt there to see Songs of Migration featuring Hugh Masekela, Gloria Bosman, and Sibongile Khumalo. It was an amazing show primarily documenting the movement of rural black South Africans from their homelands into Johannesburg or eGoli to make their fortune. In order to represent the rainbow nation they even included a Yiddish song and two Afrikaans songs. For some reason they also included about five abridged versions of “Ancient African American Spirituals”.

The singers all had amazingly powerful voices that worked together in a harmony that evoked powerful images of loss, hope, shattered dreams, listlessness, and heartbreak. Masekela who just turned 70 was as lively as ever - bending low and hitting high notes throughout the show. After the show we just happened to be having coffee and juice at the café in the theatre when I spotted Thumbeza Hlope fromthe performance – and from the popular musical Sarafina – at the bar. A few minutes later we saw Hugh. Joe stood up and urged us to follow him because he was going to get a picture. We all got a picture with him to our delight and even got a group hug! After leaving we dropped my aunt off to church and ended the day with a visit to my cousin. It was a lovely day filled with adventure and we were all very grateful.

January 17^th, 2010

Mondays are usually quite hectic in Johannesburg with everyone rushing to work and school for the new week. Mondays are even more hectic when the power goes out in most of the city. Before we left the house it came on and off about three times. We accompanied my aunt to the airport to catch her flight to East London. We headed to the nearby mall afterwards to take care of some business and then returned to the house.

At about 15:00hrs (3pm) we got back to the house switched out the cars – because the power had gone out we couldn’t open the garage door to get our car out and ended up driving my aunt’s BMW. From there we drove to see my cousin to find out about her wedding and then attended the Trevor Noah show at Urban Brew Studios.

To see some of Trevor Noah's comedy and find out more about who he is please visit the following website: http://www.trevornoah.co.za

Trevor Noah is a young Johannesburg comedian who has become extremely famous in the past year or so. We were able to watch the second to last taping of the show and even go to meet him. We also met Elvis Blue who was last year’s Idols – the South African version of American Idols – winner. Although we didn’t seem to do very much in the day it went quickly and seemed to be full. We head South in a few days time and then the real work begins.

Back to Africa

January 9^th, 2010.

The day finally came for Joe and I to begin our travels to South Africa. We had two tickets on Egypt Air leaving from JFK international airport in New York City. We got dropped off by my uncle and said a final good-bye to home. The flight was just about 10 hours long to Cairo non-stop. We played some scrabble before boarding the plane and waited over an hour to get into the sky. They fed us a choice of chicken, fish, or beef and after eating we fell asleep.

In no time we arrived in Cairo just before 13:00 or 1 pm. Because we had a 12 hour layover in Cairo we decided to take a quick tour of the city. Conveniently Egypt Air is affiliated with a tour company – Karnak – that specializes in just such things. So I handed over all our documentation to the Egypt Air officials in order to go on the tour. At first when going to the Karnak office it seemed like there would be four people going on the tour of the pyramids and the sphinx – myself, Joe, and two young ladies who were flying from Tel Aviv. Then another couple headed to Kuala Lampur popped up. It didn’t seem like a bad deal the more people the cheaper the tour. However, the more people the bigger the delay. Long story short the tour ended up being 12 people and to get all the documentation ready took two hours.

Patiently, we all watched the officials walk back and forth at least 10-15 times with our tickets and passports. Finally, at quarter to 3 everything was ready. Unfortunately, we were told the pyramids and Sphinx close at 3 so instead of a tour there we would see the Nile, a famous bazaar in Cairo, and some museum. The good news was that we would still get to see the pyramids, just from a distance.

So off we all went. All twelve of us followed the official through customs and into an air conditioned Karnak van. After waiting around for about 15 minutes we were off into the hectic Cairo traffic. The van swerved, stopped short, sped up and slowed down while we gasped and prayed not to get hit. Traffic was horrendous. In any case we made a quick stop at the side of the highway to pick up our tour guide who instantly began spouting information about Cairo and the city of Giza. Soon after we made it to our first stop – The Nile! How exciting. Again the driver stopped the van on the side of the highway allowing all twelve of us to hop out and take pictures.

When we were done watching the ferry man take people across the river and water flow we jumped back in the van and sped off into the traffic to see the pyramids. We drove about 10 more minutes before the pyramids made their first appearance amidst the contemporary Giza high rises, satellite dishes, laundry, and traffic. For a third time we stopped on the side of the highway to take pictures. “I hope we get closer!” was my comment to Joe. Indeed we did. After turning off on a smaller road next to a canal filled with trash fed by the Nile and the millions of residents we got right outside the pyramid gates.

Tourists were all around, busses and busses of them. Young and old men led and rode camels for visitors’ pleasures. Stores abounded with all sorts of Egyptian wares. We all took pictures. Suddenly our tour guide led us into a building which happened to be a KFC/Pizza hut! We were all baffled to say the least. Anyway, we walked up a few flights of stairs to the roof of the franchise and then gathered around to take our photos in front of the pyramids. All the while I wondered why we needed to stop on the side of the highway and why we were viewing the pyramids from a Pizza hut.

After about 10-15 minutes of pictures we descended back into the street and were loaded back into the van. The tour guide then told us that we were going to go to a papyrus museum and a perfume shop to learn about these two ancient Egyptian industries. The one lady headed to Kuala Lampur asked about the bazaar to which the guide responded “Oh no, no we cannot go there it is too crowded now!” I can only imagine the look of disappointment in her face -at least the second one that day – it was probably the same look Joe had when he found out that the closest we’d get to the pyramids was atop a cheesy American franchise! I guess we’ll have to return to get the true experience.

Off we went to the museum and shop which ended up being just tourist traps to get us to spend our money. None of us did except for one Pakistani woman who purchased some kohl for some outrageously expensive price. I promise you the perfume salesman cursed us as we left but we thankfully piled into the van. Finally, hungry and exhausted we were driven to our hotel – the nice thing about Egypt Air is that if you have an extra long layover you can take advantage of their FREE hotel service where they will put you up and feed you. So after what seemed to be a forever ride back near the airport through rush hour traffic we arrived at the hotel. Most of us had late night flights so we only got to enjoy the rooms for two hours but in that time we ate a much needed buffet meal and got showers.

Come 21:00 hours – 9pm – Joe and I checked out of the hotel, then hopped on another bus to the -airport which was actually walking distance but due to security and the highway systems could not do so. Finally we arrived back at the airport went to the customer service counter, picked up our passports, boarding passes, and luggage tags and were quickly shuffled through customs and security. An hour and a half we got on our plane for about seven more hours straight down the continent – next stop Johannesburg!

Good-Bye Tuscarora

Nu:Yah arrived and so did a bunch of people for their Oo-wedah - special sweets for children which traditionally were ginger bread men - it is derived from the Tuscarora word for doll. There's a lot more that can be said but for the sake of brevity I will leave it at that. We awoke to Joe's aunt doing her usual sweet making thing. This time she made Italian cookies and with every knock on the door people got to pick a cookie and move to the next house. Not too many people came partly due to the rain, so we were able to make some waffles for ourselves and have a fairly quiet breakfast before going to the Feast.

We went early to get the first seating with Grams and got to catch up and say Good-bye to some friends and family. There were 10 seats per table with about 10 tables. Each table had a bowl of venison, mashed squash, and baked beans, butter, salt, pepper, and grape drink. When everyone entered the dining area most people picked up their pie. There was apple, lemon meringue, and pumpkin to pick from. Since we had to wait to get served and many of us were very hungry some of us began eating our pie first. Luckily it didn't ruin our appetites.

After a few minutes of waiting the servers - who were all volunteers from the community and those who had won scholarships through the nation - came around with the plates of food. There were three compartments on each plate filled with mashed potatoes, string beans, and a slab of ham. Because neither Joe nor I eat pork we just had potatoes and then filled our plates with the food from the bowls. A little while later the servers came around offering a bit of rabbit pie. It was my first time tasting it and my first reaction was "Hey this tastes like turkey!" Apparently there was not enough rabbit to feed everyone so the cooks mixed meat. In any case it was all tasty and by the time we left we were stuffed.

A few days later we headed south to catch our flight even further south for the next leg of our trip. We already miss everyone and even the snow. I guess we'll just have to enjoy it next year!

Happy NU'YA

Towards the end of the old year the Tuscarora start preparing for the Nu'Ya's feast which coincides with the first day of the New Year. So old men and young men go hunt for the feast and whoever brings in less game has to clean ALL the game! YUCK. Young men consist of those who don't have children and old men have children. From what I have heard young men usually lose. Also sometimes the different age groups play tricks on one another. One trick I heard about was the old men telling the young men the wrong date of the hunt so that there would be less competition!

After the hunt everyone that is participating has to have their game brought in to the old gym where it is counted, the losers are determined and then the cleaning commences. We got to experience some of the count. All together there were 4 deer and countless rabbits. All is used for the feast. On New Year's eve people are still preparing. So Joe and I went to the old gym for a few hours. While I peeled potatoes Joe butchered some rabbit meat. Then we both took our turns pounding the Indian corn that would become cornbread - boiled not baked!

Come Nu Ya's feast we were eager to taste the fruit of our labor and um um was it good!

Christmas

About a month before Christmas one of Joe's aunts decided to make Christmas a bit more crafty and we all picked names out of a bowl. The person's name who we picked had to be given a present from us that was hand made!

Joe and I started pretty early and wondered about the other people's progress. It was hard though to decide what to make. I ended up purchasing an empty cigar box and then painted it with things that had something to do with what my person studied in school. Since he is into anatomy and things of that nature I found images of the human body - the skeletal system, musculature, and the anatomy of the hands and feet - then painted them on each side of the box. Joe made a scrap book for his secret santee, and I helped the other little man of the family make Joe's present on Xmas eve. He finished right on time!



Come Christmas eve afternoon we had our gifts under the tree and went to help Joe's cousin prepare for her annual Christmas eve open house. She had about 5 - 6 types of desserts - muddy buddies, peppermint and orange fudge, no bake chocolate peanut cookies, pumpkin pie, snickerdoodles, etc. - soft tacos, moose chili, meat balls, stuffed shells, veggie platters, etc. There was even a giant cookie man that we got to decorate. We spent about 4 hours total there, helping, eating, and then digesting on the couch.


At about 7 pm we decided to take a drive and look at the lights around the neighborhoods of Lewiston and Youngstown which are not far from the reservation. Then we went to Fatima Shrine to have one more look at the lights. For more information on the shrine please visit here: http://www.fatimashrine.com/

After taking some photos we returned home and exchanged gifts. I was so happy that my person smiled and actually seemed to like the gift. Everyone did a wonderful job and seemed genuinely happy. The next morning store bought gifts were exchanged then Joe, his grandma, and I went to another relative's house to have lunch. We enjoyed our time and visited some more of his relatives in the Falls then called it a day to watch movies on the computer.

Snow has come and gone and then stayed. Thanksgiving has come and gone and stayed (on the hips) and Christmas is right around the corner. Joe and I have been visiting everyone we can before we head overseas. In the meantime we've been eating, listening, and sharing. So I would like to share some stuff of my own.

Throughout the summer I would hear the familiar voices of NPR hosts and jingles on the reservation. A few people would blast the station on Sundays and the sounds of blues would emanate from large and small speakers situated outside and inside the people's homes. Joe never liked NPR so when I would tell him that I think so and so is listening to NPR he would scoff and blow it off. But I sustained my resilience and pressed on, tuning the car radio to the station when ever we would have to drive somewhere.

Finally over this past week we heard something on last week's Sunday blues show on NPR. The dj played a band that should have been familiar to us having lived a few years in Indiana and calling that state "home". What we heard was Rev. Payton's Big Damn Band from Nashville! It was so ironic because we fell in love with the sound and found out that they're playing in Bloomington, IN at the Bluebird this New Years Eve! What's so ironic about this is that last year we had nothing to do when we were in Btown last New Year and now we were so close and yet so far.

If anyone is interested in some great bluesy-hill billy type music that'll make you stomp your feet check out the Bluebird on New Years eve! If you're not around there then just check out their music:

www.bigdamnband.com

Merry Christmas "Plasma for Christmas"!